Get lost in Georgetown, Penang

The best way to know this UNESCO world heritage city is to wander its streets.

A woman praying at a small Chinese shrine at an alley in Penang. Shrines like these are every where in Georgeotown.

I did, probably, an insane thing by Malaysian standards a few days ago. I decided to travel to Penang during the long weekend.

Well, technically I was supposed to travel by train to Taiping first, then stay two days and grab another train to Butterworth, where I'll then grab a ferry to the island.

But, Taiping and I ... for some reason I could never seem to get tot that sleepy town. It's my third attempt, and I failed yet again. This time because I arrived at the wrong station and missed my train. My inability to get to Taiping has become a weird cosmic comedy.

After debating if I should take a bus to Taiping, I decided against it and booked a flight straight to Penang instead. I'm glad I did that because later I checked social media and found out many unfortunates got stuck on the highways. A normal 4-hour journey to Taiping would probably have taken me eight hours. Not the wisest thing to stress yourself out at a vacation where you're trying to recover from burnout.

Anyway, bullet dodged.

As you know, I'm a Penang kia (Hokkien for "child of Penang"). I visit Penang a few times yearly. Something about Penang just makes me miss it the moment I leave it. I guess I'm bonded to this island by blood.

Here's my tip to tourists: The best way to explore Georgetown is to get lost in its streets.

Surprise encounters

A few days ago, I wanted to have breakfast at a simple kopitiam near my hotel at Victoria road. It's very old, and only sold basic hawker food like wantan noodles and char kway teow.

Google Maps led me to an alley. I walked down the alley, and the first thing I saw was a lady in red praying in front of a shrine.

I walked past her, wondering if she was real, and found myself in an open area flanked by the backs of century-old shophouses.

At the mouth of the alley was an Indian man with his yellow dog. I stopped, wondering where in the world this kopitiam was. Seeing how confused I was, the man chuckled and pointed at a tiny, dark alley flanked by banana trees.

"Yes, just go straight."

Then I said, "Well, it's really odd that I have to go to the restaurant this way."

And he just chuckled and nodded. He probably saw clueless non-native folks like me all day.

I walked through the alley covered with banana trees, and there at the end was this little hawker place with scruffy tiles and marble top tables. There, I had my bowl of soup for breakfast.

This is what makes Georgetown special. The best thing about Georgetown is what you can find when you get lost in its streets. Temples can appear unexpectedly in one corner. Then, a British-style colonial buildings in the next row. You can traverse multiple cultures by walking from road to road. From Chinese, to Malay, to Indian and British.

Walking in Georgetown

The best time is to take these walks is the morning, when the roads are still sleepy and the red-light defying motorcycles are still stashed at their homes.

I usually start my walk at 7am and just wander.

Many old Georgetown shophouses have been converted into little hotels.

It's relatively safe in Georgetown, though I say, keep your handbag close, and if possible, don't wear them strapped to your shoulder. You can never know. Years ago, snatch thefts were notorious, but I believe things have improved significantly.

Just walk and have Google Maps handy, but don't be afraid to get lost.

Places to explore

One of my favourite places is the seafront at the Eastern & Oriental Hotel (a very expensive and apparently haunted - according to local legend and some TripAdvisor reviews).

You can walk along the pathway and gaze at the sea and Georgetown's horizon where I once had an iguana/monitor lizard hop up from the beach and onto the pathway, inches away from me.

When stared each other in amazement before he hopped back into the sea with a splash. Craziest thing, but that's the charm of Penang.

You can also walk to the centuries' old Fort Cornwallis from there, or maybe explore an old Christian burial ground where British men and women were buried.

A busy street at Penang’s Little India.

I don't visit all the tourist spots and take pictures. I'm not that sort of traveller. I just like soaking myself in Georgetown, exploring its roads and eating the food I stumble on.

Food finds

About food: My way has always been to walk around, stumble on an eatery and try my luck there.

At Little India, a friend dragged me, against my will under the scorching sun, to an Indian food stall selling samsosas, vade and other Indian snacks. After seeing the poster with the words "Michelin 2014", I realised this little stall "(“Penang Famous Samosa”) has been acknowledged by the royalty of food, and indeed the vade was worth it, though I'm not sure about the mostly-flour banana balls.

Got Michelin rating, don’t play-play.

Lots of lovely things to eat in Penang. Give yourself about three to four days to explore every nook and cranny of this town and you have your pick of from the fancy cafes, old-style kopitiams and stalls.

Stay in a hotel where everything is within walking distance.

My favourite hotel when in Georgetown is the unassuming Victoria Garden Hotel because it is cheap, modern and clean, but it is located at a quiet area of Georgetown, away from the busy-ness, where I can actually sleep without being woken up by wannabe singers at a karaoke joint. (If you’re a light sleeper, beware. Many hotels in Georgetown have poor sound proofing and karaoke joints and discos roar until midnight.)

From there, I can walk to all the Georgetown sights like Little India and Armenian Street.

So, if you’re in Penang, wake up early, wander without a plan, and let Georgetown show you its secrets. That's how you'll really get to know this city, not by checking off sights, but by getting deliciously lost in its streets.

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